American dining has been huge (like the portions) in London for a long time, so when Polpo’s mastermind is gonna undertake American food, you know he’s gonna make it just a whole lot better without the after-bloat, self loathing and artery clogging ache that may come from eateries such as Ed’s (not necessarily a bad thing – sometimes that is exactly what you go out for).
Time Out called Spuntino a silk purse made from a sow’s ear, and you know, I get exactly what they mean. The restaurant is decked out with 27 stools and a popcorn machine, as the ominously bare homepage tells us it’s no reservations and I think it’s one of Soho’s best secrets.
Glass bottles, wood, stripped walls and exposed brick, the decor, like the food, packs a real punch.
Between three of us, the buttermilk chicken, crisp and delightfully greasy in a lick your fingers way, rather than good god, get me a napkin, was devoured. The sliders, including prawn po and salt beef with a runny yolk was enveloped in sweet brioche buns but what stood out was the truffled eggs which has to be tasted to be believed. Silky smooth sauce sponges up yolk and gives you a big truffle, no nonsense kiss.
This diner is not American Dream with wholesome shakes, gleaming polished stools and service with a smile. Think moody, tattooed and like the food, lot’s of attitude.
The restaurant has been open since 2013, but without the queues of Polpo and with American-Italian fusion food to keep those lips smacking. Head here after work, late night after a show, or in-between beers for a quick bite. I hear the bourbon is pretty good too.